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Laptop General Discussion. Set-Top Boxes. Moderators online. Tom's Guide is part of Future plc, an international media group and leading digital publisher. Visit our corporate site. All rights reserved. England and Wales company registration number Top Bottom. Another tip: if you want to be sure you have a ground loop, replace your audio source by your cell phone audio. Since it is not connected to your house AC net you should stop the hum.
I started getting the hum issue when connecting a second sub to the AV receiver. Using your steps above, I was able to pinpoint the issue to the shitty subwoofer cable from Best Buy. Replaced it with the one from Mediabridge and the hum went away. Much much thanks. It created humm sound each time I turned off my Reciever.
After I read from this article. I bought amazon basic Y-splitter rca cable,it work just fine. Thanks for the info. The hum goes off when I switch the light off…. Follow HomeCinemaGuru. One by one, reverse the orientation of the other plugs to see if it makes a difference.
Separate the cables. When you cluster power or audio cables in bundles, signals bleed over and create noise because of their proximity. Space cables apart so the electrical fields created by moving current don't interfere with each other. If you can't separate them a sufficient distance, upgrade the audio cables to ones with more effective shielding. Switch outlets. Sometimes the subwoofer hum is caused by a ground loop, which happens when it's fighting a second device for possession of the ground.
If you have another three-prong piece of equipment sharing the same wall outlet, power strip, or surge protector as the subwoofer, move the subwoofer to another AC circuit in the room. It may be necessary to use an extension cord to reach a wall outlet that is separate from the rest of the stereo system. Use an audio isolation transformer. If the previous grounding techniques haven't worked, consider purchasing and installing an audio isolation transformer.
Many are designed for powered subwoofers and connect in line with the cables. They instantly resolve ground loops. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. The "brute force" method for getting rid of cycle hum is to filter it out, but that's not a particularly desirable solution. Some parts of a low-frequency audio signal are themselves around 60 Hertz, and a filter doesn't know whether a particular wave is part of the intended sound or is noise -- it just strips it out.
To get rid of hum without having to throw out some of the desired audio at the same time, we need to start by understanding what the various possible causes are. The four principal likely causes of hum are: 1 Electrical defects in the powered subwoofer; 2 Induced noise in the audio signal path, most likely around cables; 3 Ground loop noise resulting from different ground potential at the receiver and the subwoofer; and 4 Noise arising from these causes in or between other components upstream of the subwoofer.
The things that will solve one of these problems will not solve them all; and it's entirely possible that you have more than one factor contributing to your problem, so if something helps, but doesn't resolve the issue, keep trying.
Unfortunately, sometimes the cause of a humming subwoofer is simply the subwoofer itself. Any audio reproduction device that runs off of our regular AC power has got to tame that cycle noise in the power supply, convert it to nice level DC voltages, and protect the audio circuitry from the power supply sufficiently to prevent hum from getting from the power supply into the signal path.
Internal failures, however, can mess this up. In most cases, this is pretty easy to detect: disconnect your subwoofer from everything except power yes, unplug the incoming signal cable , and power it on. If it still hums when there's nothing going in, your issue is probably with the sub, which needs repair or replacement.
Induced Hertz noise is hum that comes into your audio system through contact or proximity to power circuits or cables. While this can happen internally in your devices, the more common cause is bad routing of cables. We sometimes find that people have routed power cable and audio interconnect cable through the same conduit or cable tray -- definitely a no-no not only from a noise point of view, but also from an electrical code point of view. Current moving in a cable creates a field around the cable which can cause a similar current to flow in nearby conductors -- this is the same sort of thing that's going on when you experience "crosstalk" in telephone lines, bits of signal that bleed over into neighboring wires.
Induced noise, if entering through cabling, is usually fairly simple to solve.
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